The City

Bangkok is sprawling, chaotic and exhausting: to do it justice and keep your sanity, don’t try to do too much in too short a time. The place to start is Ratanakosin, the royal island on the east bank of the Chao Phraya, where the city’s most important and extravagant sights are to be found. On the edges of this enclave and quirky religious architecture, a contrast with the attractions of neighboring Chinatown, whose markets pulsate with the much more aggressive business of making money. Quieter and more European in ambience are the stately buildings of the new royal district of Dusit, 2km northeast of Democracy Monument. Very little of old Bangkok remains, but the back canals of Thonburi, across the river from Ratanakosin and Chinatown, retain a traditional feel quite at odds with the modern high-rise jungle of downtown Bangkok, which has evolved across on the eastern perimeter of the city and can take an hour to reach by bus from Ratanakosin. It’s here that you will find the best shops, bars, restaurants and nightlife, as well as a handful of worthwhile sights. Greater Bangkok now covers an area some 30km in diameter though unsightly urban development predominates, an expedition to the outskirts is made worthwhile by several museums and the city’s large market, Chatuchak.

Ratanakosin

When Rama I developed Ratanakosin as his new capital in 1782, after the sacking if Ayutthaya and a temporary stay across the river in Thonburi, he paid tribute to its precursor in imitating Ayutthaya’s layout and architecture – he even shipped the building materials downstream from the ruins of the old city. Like Ayutthaya, the new capital was sited for protection beside a river and turned into a artificial island by the construction of defensive canals, with a central Grand Palace and adjoining royal temple, Wat Phra Kaeo, fronted by an open cremation field, Sanam Luang the Wang Na (Palace of the Second King), now doing service as the National Museum, was also built at this time. Wat Pho, which predates the capital’s founding, was further embellished by Rama I’s successors, who have consolidated Ratanakosin’s pre-eminence by building several grand European-style palaces (now housing government institutions); Wat Mahathat, the most important centre of Buddhist learning in Southeast Asia; the National Theatre; and Thammasat and Silpakorn universities.

Bangkok has expanded eastwards away from the river, leaving the Grand Palace a good 5km from the city’s commercial heart, and the royal family have long since moved their residence to Dusit, but Ratanakosin remains the ceremonial centre of ground under the weight of its own mighty edifices. The heavy, stately feel is lightened by traditional shop houses and noisy markets along the riverside strip and by Sanam Luang, still used for cremations and royal ceremonies, but also functioning as a popular open park and the hub of the modern city’s bus system. Despite containing several of the country’s main sights, the area is busy enough in its own right not to have become a swarming tourist zone, and strikes a neat balance between liveliness and grandeur.

Ratanakosin is within easy walking distance of Banglamphu, but is best approached from the river, via the express-boat piers of Tha Chang (the former bathing place of the royal elephants, which gives access to the Grand Palace) of Tha Thien (for Wat Pho). A word of warning: when you are heading for the Grand Palace or Wat Pho, you may well be approached by someone pretending to be a student or an official, who will tell you that the sight is closed when it’s not, because they want to lead you on the shopping trip. Although the opening hours of the Grand Palace are sometimes erratic because of state occasions, it’s far better to put in a bit of extra legwork and check it out for yourself.