Lop Buri Thailand
Present-day Lop Buri, 155km (96 miles) north of Bangkok on the river of the same name, is an unattractive provincial capital masking a distinguished history. A half-day’s sightseeing yields a fascinating insight into Thailand’s past.
With roots stretching back into prehistory, Lop Buri was a major centre of the Dvarati Kingdom between 7th and 11th centuries. During the 10th to late 13th centuries it became a Khmer outpost. Historical importance peaked in the 17th century when King Narai (reigned 1656-88) made the city his second capital (after Ayutthaya). It was at Lop Buri, originally called Louvo that much of the drama of Narai’s final years was played out as he and his first minister Phaulkon courted the French, only to be defeated by a palace revolution in 1688.
Major Monuments

- Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat: Although the origins of this extensive temple ruin are known, construction clearly spans the Khmer period and King Narai’s reign. The site is dominated by large lateritic prang, probably erected in the 12th century and re-modeled in the 14th. Also of note is the large brick viharn, dating from Narai’s reign and showing Western and Persian influences in its pointed-arch windows. Open daily 08:00-16:30.
- Phra Narai Rajaivet: Surrounded by high crenellated walls, King Narai’s Palace was build between 1665 and 1677. Much of it is now in ruins but what does survive is well maintained. Partially designed by French architects, the palace was divided into three compounds enclosing, respectively, government offices, ceremonial buildings and Narai;s private apartments. In the first compound are the remains of storehouses, a reservoir and what were once stables for the King’s elephants. In an adjacent quad –angel are the ruins of the reception hall and the Phra Chao Hao building, which may once have enshrined an important Buddha image. Ruins in the heart of the palace include traces of the Suttha Sawan Pavilion, where Narai died, and the Dusit Sawan Thanya Maha Prasat, formerly used for receiving foreign ambassadors. Also in the inner courtyard is a 19th century pavilion, constructed by King Rama IV and now a museum housing a good collection of Lop Buri-style sculpture and other artifacts. Open Wed-Sun 09:00-12:00, 13:00-16:00.
- Wat Sao Tong Thong: North of the palace close to the river, the temple’s viharn was a Christian chapel during Narai’s reign and displays a mix of Thai and quasi-Gothic styles typical of the period.

- Ban Wichayen (Phaulkon’s House): The house built by Narai’s first minister, The Greek adventurer Phaulkon (given the Thai title Chao Phraya Wichayen), and stands across the street from Wat Sao Tong Thong. Within the walled compound can be seen the ruins of Phaulkon’s house, a Catholic church and Jesuit residence, and the accommodation provided for members of the 1685 French embassy. The architecture is fascinating for its obvious European borrowings juxtaposed with Thai forms. Open daily 08:00-16:30.

- Phra Prang Sam Yot: Next to the railway crossing, this was originally a Hindi shrine and later converted to Buddhist use. Dating from the 13th century it comprises three prangs linked by a central corridor.
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