Saam Ong (Three Pagodas Pass)

This is an unexciting spot with a tacky market in a makeshift shelter, which sells a few Burmese goods (teak, umghi, seed pearls) and a lot of Chinese imports (the ‘gems’ here will also be fake). The pagodas, wrapped in red, saffron and white cloth, are tiny and truly unremarkable. This was the traditional invasion route for Burmese soldiers during the Ayutthayan period.

The boarder between Burma and Thailand open 06:00-18:00, is periodically closed due to political conflict. It is therefore well worth checking the situation at the boarder before arrival. There is a tourist police office at the pass if you encounter problems.

At the border, 20 km northwest of Sangkhlaburi, where posters declare ‘Love your Motherland’ and ‘Respect the Law’, visitors can pay a US$10 immigration fee to enter Burma and the village of Payathonzu (meaning Three Pagodas). Motorbike taxis can transport you to the market area of Payathonzu (B25 from the songthaew drop-off point), which is more market than village. On the border lie the remains of the Burmese/Thai/Japanese railway. The market here is marginally more interesting than at Saam Ong, with a range of handicrafts, jewelry, jade, amulets, Burmese blankets, and an alarming amount of teak furniture. There is also a handful of Thai restaurants and noodles stalls and an Indian-run bakery.

Beyond the village, there is another border post, beyond which visitors are forbidden to go. Note that it is illegal to cross the border anywhere other than at a checkpoint. Similarly, do not go beyond Payathonzu without permission of the Burmese army.

Control of this are has vacillated between the Burmese army and Mon and Karen rebels. At present it is firmly in the hands of the Burmese authorities. If you are undecided about visiting Burma due to its human rights’ record then check the facts of Amnesty International’s website (www.amnesty.org). The only place to stay at Saam Ong is the Three Pagodas Pass Resort.

Around Saam Ong

The Mon village of Ban Songkalia lays 6km north form the turn-off-to Three Pagodas Pass. It was once the headquarters for the Mon army.

One of the three local entrances to Thung Yai Wildlife Sanctuary lies 15km northeast of Sangkhla, in the Karen village of Ban Sane Pong. Within the park is the Takien Thong Waterfall, with big pools for swimming. The fall lie 26km from Sangkhla, north of Ban Sane Pong, but are only accessible by taking the main road north for 13km from the turn-off the Three Pagodas Pass, and then taking the main road north for 13 km from the turn-off to Three Pagodas Pass, and then taking right turn down a dirt road for 9km, which is possible to drive down on motorbikes. Until recently this route was only negotiable during the dry season, but with the completion of a new all-weather road access should be year-round.

Wang Bandan Cave

No entrance fee, but the monks may try to charge B50 to guide visitors through the cave.

Wang Bandan Cave lies 18 km north from the turn-off to Three Pagodas Pas, 2km down a track to the right of the road. Monks uses to live in the cave until just a few years ago, but (it is said) due to the effect of increasing tourism in the area, from both Thais and foreigners, they have moved to small houses at the bottom of the hill. The entrance and exit are different.

Huay Kha Khaeng Wildlife Sanctuary

Open hours 08:00-17-00, B200, which includes accommodation in one of the three very basic fan huts; larger groups should seek prior approval from the Wildlife Conservation Divisions of the Royal Forest Department, Royal Forest Department, 61 Phaholyothin Ladyao Jutujak, Bangkok; take the Uthai Thani route to Lan Sak, and turn off about 30km before you get to Lan Sak, follow this turn-off 14km to Huay Kha Khaeng; there is public transport available. Place is a World Heritage Site and one of the largest wildlife sanctuaries in Southeast Asia. If you’re looking for the best of Thailand’s free ranging wildlife species – including an enormous range of birdlife – it is unmissable. It borders the Tak and Kanchanaburi Provinces and is a haven for animals with its virgin deciduous forests, prairies, mountains and many streams. Hidden among the fronds are some of Thailand’s largest remaining wild elephant herds, the last remaining herds of wild water buffalo, rare gibbons, three otter species and the large gaur and banteng wild cattle species. Also watch out for tigers, clouded leopards and sun bears. The sanctuary is, as yet, underdeveloped and it is advices to stay too far from the bungalows both because of the danger of the resident animals, and that of getting lost. If the staff has enough time on their hands, they will lead short walks around the area, but their command of foreign languages presents a problem for those wanting to understand more of the indigenous flora, fauna and wildlife. There is a nature trail for small groups of visitors but additional services are limited.