Sangkhlaburi
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On the hill just above Sangkhlaburi, next to the main road, rest a massive gold-painted reclining Buddha followed by a collection of other enormous golden Buddha statues. This ostentatious display reveals little of the lethargic town down below. Situated on the edge of the huge Khan Laem Reservoir, which was created in 1983 with the damming of three rivers, Sangkhlaburi is a great place to wile away the hours in peaceful surroundings. The town is also a center for wood and drugs smuggling. There’s remarkably diverse population of Karen, Mon, Burmese, Indian and Chinese.
The morning market here provides a range of textiles and various Burmese goods. A 400-m wooden bridge across the lake, leads to an atmospheric Mon village (Waeng Kha). There are also stunning views of the surrounding hills from the bridge. The 8000 inhabitants are mainly displaced Burmese who cannot get a Thai passport and can only work around Sangkhla.
From 1948 onwards refugees have fled Burma for the relative safety of Thailand. Most of them will never be allowed a visa or resident’s permit. In 1983 the old town of Sangkhlaburi was flooded by the dam and these refugees were again left with no homes or land. The abbot of the flooded Wat Sam Prasop, the spires of which can be seen – so it is said – protruding above the lake waters during the dry season, was able to acquire land for a new wat and helped 500 households to re-establish themselves. These people are not wanted by the Thai government and there have been several raids by the army to round up Mon people without identity cards. Over the years they have been protected by the monks living here, but there is no guarantee this will continue and their existence in Thailand is uncertain to say the least.
Wat Wang Wiwekaram is situated across the lake from Sangkhlaburi on a hill. It was built in 1983 to replace the revered temple (Wat Sam Prasop), which was submerged by the reservoir. The chedi is said to be modeled on the Mahabodhi stupa in Bodhgaya, India, with the viharn, allegedly constructed with black market profits, providing a fine example of nouveau, gauche temple architecture. To the east of the wat is a Burmese handicraft market, where sarongs, silk, cloth, lacquerware and silver jewellery are all for sale. Avoid the ‘gems’, though, since they are almost certain fakes.
