Sukhuthai wats outside the Old City walls

The main reason to see the monasteries outside the Old City walls is to get a better ideal of what Sukhothai was like before it became a historical park and was cleared of cycling to these wats during the morning when it is cooler as they are far apart. Alternatively, hire a tuk-tuk.

Wat Sri Chum

Take the northwest gate out of the city to visit the impressive Wat Sri Chum. A large mondop, with a narrow vaulted entrance, enclosed an enormous brick and stucco seated Buddha image. The temple was probably built during the seventh reign of the Sukhothai Kingdom (mid-14^th century) and is said to have caused a Burmese army to flee in terror, such is power of its withering gaze. The large Buddha seems almost suffocated by the surrounding walls which must have been added at a later stage. There is a stairway in the mondop which leads up to a space behind the head of the image (closed since 1988). Here, there are line carvings recounting the Jakata tales, covering the slate slab ceiling. Each slab depicts one story, skillfully carved with free-flowing lines- which originally would have been enlivened with paint. There are the finest and earliest (circa 1350) to be found in Thailand (there are examples from Wat Sri Chum in the National Museum, Bangkok). The image here is said to have talked on a number of occasions – although the back stairs provide a useful hiding place for someone to play a practical joke.

Wat Phra Pai Luang

East if Wat Sri Chum is Wat Phra Pai Luang, the Monastery of the Great Wind, interesting for the remains of three laterite prangs. Built during the reign of King Jayavarman VII (a Khmer king who ruled 1181-1217) it dates from the Khmer period that preceded the rise of Sukhothai. Its Khmer inspiration is clearly evident in the square base and indented tiers. To the east of the prang is a later stupa, with niches on all four sides containing damaged Buddha images. Further east still is a ruined mondop with the remains of large stucco Buddha images, standing, walking and reclining. In total, Wat Phra Pai Luang contains over 30 stupas or assorted styles. It is thought that not only was it originally a Hindu shrine, but that it was also the site of an earlier Khmer town.

Wat Saphan Hin

Take the northwest road 3km beyond the city walls where a large, standing Buddha image is located at the top of an ancient staircase. Sited at the top of a hill amid languorous woodlands Wat Saphan Hin has one of the most beautiful locations in Sukhothai. Many Thais still come here, offering prayers and incense. It is also a perfect spot to watch a tropical sunrise. Though you’ll need to get up early if you want to reach here in time.

Wat Khao Phrabat Noi

Not far away from Wat Saphan Hin are the remains of two other monasteries. Wat Khao Phrabat Noi lies about 2.5km northwest of the city walls and it is approached along a stone-lined footpath. The chedi here is unusual in that is not really Sukhothai in style and it is presumed that it was remodeled during the Ayutthaya period. Four Buddha footprints were found here, but these have been removed to the National Museum in Bangkok.

Wat Chang Rob

South from this group of three monasteries is the better-known Wat Chang Rob, the Monastery Encircled by Elephants. In Buddhist mythology, elephants – the holiest of beasts – support Mount Meru, the centre of the universe.

Wat Chedi Ngam

Continuing south to Route 12 is the impressive, at least in size, Wat Chedi Ngam, the Monastery of the Beautiful Chedi. The large chedi, pure and simple in its form, has been well preserved. Also here are the remains of a large viharn with some standing columns, and what is thought have been a kuti (monks’ quarters) or place for bathing.

Wat Mangkon and Wat Phra Yuen

On the north side of Route 12 is Wat Mangkon, the Dragon Monastery. A relatively large complex, the bot, surrounded by large leaf-shaped boundary stones, has an unusual slate-tiled brick base. To the west of the bot is the base of a pavilion or sala and to the north the remains of a Ceylonese-style bell-shaped phra chedi. Wat Phra Yuen is around 200m from Wat Mangkon and 1500m from the Sukhothai city walls, just to the south of Route 12. The remains of a bot can be identified by the bai sema (boundary stones) that surround it and a mondop houses a large standing Buddha image.

Wat Ton Chan and Wat Chetuphon

There are also a series of monasteries to the south and east of the city. Travel 1km from the city by the south gate and you’ll find Wat Ton Chan (Sandalwood Tree Monastery). Although large, the monastery is nothing very special, although it is moated and has a bathing pool along with the usual array of viharn and chedi. Far more impressive is Wat Chetuphon, one of Sukhothai’s more important monasteries. The building materials are more varied than the usual brick and stucco; stone, slate and brick have also been used in its construction. However, archaeologists and art historians suspect that the monastery was renovated and expanded on a number of occasions, so how much of the structure is Sukhothai, is a source of conjecture.

Wat Chedi Si Hong

About 500m from Wat Chetuphon is Wat Chedi Si Hong. The most notable feature of this wat is the fine stucco work depicting devas (heavenly beings), humans and garudas riding elephants on the base of the viharn and chedi.