Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai city is situated mostly on the west bank of the Pink River and lies in a fertile valley ringed by lush green hills. Its layout is dominated by a square moat which encompasses the old city, entered via five now restored gates: Chang Puak Gate in the north; Ta Pae Gate in the east; Chiang Mai Gate and Suan Prang Gate, both in the south; and Suan Dork Gate in the west. Today, the city has expanded well beyond the moat and the modern town centre lies to the east between Ta Pae Gate and the river.

Aside from relaxation and shopping for handicrafts, Chiang Mai’s main attractions are its temples, which much older than those in Bangkok and stylistically quite different. Chiang Mai has 36 wats standing within the moat and more than 80 throughout the city. For the traveler with limited time, the following are recommended:

Wat Phra Singh

On the corner of Singharat and Ratchadamnoen roads, the temple was constructed in 1345 by King Pha Yu, who built the large chedi to hold the ashes of his father, King Kam Fu.

Behind the new viharn are the bot and the famed Phra Viharn Lai Kam, one of Chinag Mai’s finest northern-style buildings. It enshrines the highly revered image of Phra Singh Buddha, sculpted in early Lanna style and originally brought from Chiang Rai. The walls of the viharn are decorated with 19^th-century mural paintings, the best preserved of their kind in Chiang Mai and fascinating in their details of Northern dress, customs and scenes from daily life a century ago.

Wat Chedi Luang

On Phra Pokklao Road, Wat Chedi Luang is famous for its massive ruined chedi, recently the subject of a controversial restoration project. The chedi was first build in 1401, enlarged to a height of 86m (282ft) by King Tilokaraj in 1454and then partially destroyed by an earthquake in 1545. Nearby, Chiang Mai’s City Pillar is housed beneath a gum tree; according to legend, Chiang Mai will prosper only so long as the tree survives.

Wat Chiang Man

Wat Chet Yot

Northwest of the city on the Super Highway, Wat Chet Yot was either built or completely restored by King Tilokaraj in the mid-15^th century. It derives its name from the seven (chet) spires of its square chedi, the unusual design being copied from a temple in Pagan, Burma, itself a copy of the Mahabodhi temple in Bodh Gaya, India. Note the fine stucco celestial figures adorning the sides of the chedi. Close to Wat Chet Yot is Chiang Mai National Museum, which presents an interesting if uninspired collection of Lanna exhibits.

Wat Suan Dork and Wat Umong

Wat Suan Dork, the “Flower Garden Temple” off Suthep Road a short distance west of Suan Dork Gate, is a historically important temple with a huge bell-shaped chedi, but it is architecturally unattractive.

A more evocative temple in the same area is Wat Umong, one of Chiang Mai’s oldest temple monasteries, with underground cells from meditation. Much of the original building is in ruins; although a visit is worthwhile for the tranquil forest-like setting (access is tricky, via a winding lane off Suthep Road).

Excursions from Chiang Mai

Doi Suthep

The most popular short excursion form Chiang Mai is to this imposing mountain some 15km (miles) west of town and famous for Wat Phrathat, perched close to the summit. The temple (reached either by a flight of 290 steps or by funicular) comprises an imposing gilded chedi, originally erected in the late 14^th century (since restored on several occasions). Lavish and ornate decoration is matched by magnificent panoramic view of surrounding countryside.

The site of Wat Phrathat, according to legend, was chosen in the late 14^th century when King Ku Na was chosen in the late 14^th century when King Ku Na was seeking a repository for some holy relics. These were placed in a howdah on the back of an elephant which was then set free to wander at will. The animal proceeded to climb Doi Suthep and near the top it stopped, trumpeted and turned round three times before kneeling, indicating that this was the chose spot.

The road continues beyond the foot of Doi Suthep and after 4km reaches Phuping Palace, the Royal Family’s northern residence whose gardens are open to the public Fri-Sun 08:00-16:00. A further 3km from the palace is Doi Pui, an authentic but unfortunately commercialized Hmong hill tribe village.