Chiang Rai
King Mengrai founded Chiang Rai in 1262. Some 35 years later he moved 182 km south to bigger and better things at Chiang Mai. That briefly sums up the history of the capital of Thailand's northernmost province. Overshadowed by Chiang Mai, it has forever been a backwater, sprawling lazily on the right bank of Kok River. Things are set to change, however, as Chiang Rai becomes recognized as an excellent base for exploring the Far North, while the surrounding countryside holds some of its most spectacular attractions, all of which can be reached in easy day trips from the city.
Wat Khra Kaeo, on Trairat Road, had late Lanna period chapel and a few fine bronze images, though it is mostly famous for its restored chedi which, according to legend, was where Bangkok's famous statue of the Emerald Buddha was discovered in 1436.
Wat Phra sign, on nearly Singhakai Road, used to enshrine the important image of Phra Buddha Si Hing; the original has now been moved to Chiang Mai and a copy sits in its place.
Wat Ngam Muang, sited on a small hill west of Wat Phra Kaeo and reached by a short flight of naga-flanked steps, has an ancient brick chedi which is a reliquary for the remains of King Mengrai. It was first erected in 1318, though the structure seen today is of later construction.
Wat Doi Tung, on a hill north of Wat Ngam Muang, comprises a viharn and a Burmese-style chedi. The location commands views of the Kok River and tradition has that King Mengrai first surveyed the site of the city here.
For a glimpse of Chiang Rai's traditional character, the morning market near Wat Mung Muang should not be missed; catch it at its liveliest before 07:00.
Excursions from Chiang Rai
- Doi Mae Salong and Doi Tung: Two high forested peaks of great natural beauty, located 30km and 40km north of Chiang Rai, respectively. Roads wind upwards through the corrugated slopes dotted with hill tribe villages to the summits of both mountains, affording breathtaking views east to the Mekong and Laos, and west to the hills of Burma. Topping Doi Mae Salong, the wilder of the two peaks, is a village inhabited by former members of the Kuomintang army and their descendant. Doi Tung is by contrast tamer and has been extensively developed. At the summit, however, is the lovely little temple of Wat Phra Thai Doi Tung, with twin chedis erected to enshrine relics of the Buddha in 911. It is an especially sacred spot not only for Thais but also for Laotians and Shans from Burma.
- Chiang Saen: A Charming little market town on the banks of the Mekong northeast of Chiang Rai, Chiang Saen is the site of an ancient and once powerful settlement, as witnessed by number of historical monuments, most notably the splendid chedi of Wat Pa Sak, built in 1295, and the ruins of Wat Phra That Chom Kitti. Together with a handful of other ruins, these afford ample sightseeing possibilities. Nor should the small but worthwhile museum be overlooked.
- Golden Triangle: A few kilometers upstream from Chiang Saen is the confluence of the Mekong and Ruak rivers, forming the boarder between Thailand, Burma and Laos, the spot known as the "Golden Triangle". This famous juncture is best viewed by climbing up the small hill to Wat Phra That Phu Khao. Unfortunately, the era is cluttered with hotels, guesthouses and down-market souvenir stalls, effectively destroying any intriguing atmosphere. The name ‘Golden Triangle' also refers to a vastly greater area of these three countries which produces two-thirds of the world's opium output - around 2400 tones annually. Although the signposted ‘ Golden Triangle' near Chiang Saen on the banks of the Mekong lies in the hear of opium country, it suffers gross tourism development - here, instead of mule trains and drug traffickers, are tour busses and souvenir touts.
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