Nan

Lying 74km north of Bangkok, on the eastern edge of the northern region, Nan is largely off the tourist map. As well as some interesting temples, it benefits from a pleasant location amid some splendid surrounding scenery.

Founded as an independent state in the 13^th century, Nan became part of the Lanna Kingdom in 140. From 1558 it was under Burmese sovereignty and, after the foreign occupiers were finally expended in 1786, it pledged allegiance to the nation's new capital, Bangkok, although its own ruling dynasty was allowed to persist with certain privileges of autonomy until 1931.

The best starting point is the National Museum (Wed-Sun 09:00-16:00), centrally located in a former palace. Its prize possession is a black elephant tusk, reputedly brought to Nan some 300 years ago.

Wat Chang Kham Vora Viharn, located directly opposite the museum, derives its name from its chedi, originally built in 1406, which has a base adorned with seven elephant buttresses on each side. The main attraction, though, is a superb 145cm gold statue of the waling Buddha housed in the monks' residence.

Wat Pumin, just beyond Wat Chang Kham Vora Viharn on the opposite side of the road, is Na's most famous temple. The main preaching hall dates from the late 16^th century and follows an untypical cruciform pattern, which steps leading up to exquisitely carved entrance doors on each of the four sides. Two of the stairways are flanked by balustrades in the form of nagas. The interior is dominated by a centerpiece of four Buddha statues facing the four cardinal points, while the walls are covered with fine mural paintings.

Wat Phra That Chae Haeng is an ancient walled temple located east of the river 2km form town and occupying an elevated site reached by a naga-flanked approach. It is a most imposing monument dominated by a 55m chedi covered with gilded copper plaques, while the preaching hall has an impressive three-tiered, file-level foor.